Re: [Harp-L] Gapping etc for overblows

["Tim Moyer" <wmharps@xxxxxxxxx>]

Ron wrote:
> I have never read instructions that explain the burnishing process 
> clearly enuf for me to understand.  Is this burnishing done from 
> the underside of the reedplate so ya don't touch the reed?  This 
> would require the harp to be disassembled, which in the case of any 
> harp with nails, would be problematic (for me anyway).
>   Or is it done on top of the reed (which i would think might 
> damage the reed)?

Let me first say that "burnishing" or embossing reedslots really 
doesn't have anything to do with gapping for overbends (as the 
subject of this post implies).  This technique can help make a reed 
more responsive by narrowing the gaps between the sides of the reeds 
and their slots, but in my opinion it has a more pronounced effect on 
tone than on responsiveness.  The only time I emboss heavily is on 
old ("vintage") Hohner reedplates that were made back when the dies 
were sloppy, in the late-70s to the mid-90s.

That said, I do a very light "emboss" on modern harps that I'm 
setting up for overbends.  The principle effect I'm going for is not 
to narrow the reedslots but to push the reed down into the slot near 
the base.  Then the reed is arced upwards so that the tip gap can be 
raised while still leaving the reed sealing the slot well.  This 
allows the gaps to be set higher so the reeds don't choke as easily, 
but facilitates overbends.  

Embossing (or here "burnishing") is done from the reed side of the 
plate, and yes, it will require the harp to be completely 
disassembled.  It will also create a lot of frustration, because the 
narrower clearances will reveal myriad slight imperfections in the 
reeds and slots (and embossing technique), such as small burrs and 
reeds mounted even very slightly off center.  Embossing can be done 
quickly, but making the reed sound again afterwards can be very time 
consuming.  

It can also drastically alter the tuning.  Don't expect to just pull 
the harp apart, run a socket or a penny or some other tool down the 
slots, bend the reeds back to the proper gap, and reassemble and 
play.  This is an extremely tedious process that takes a lot of time 
and patience.  You can dramatically improve the way a harp plays, 
particularly if you're trying to restore a vintage handmade 
Meisterklasse or something, but be prepared for what you're getting 
yourself into!

-tim

Tim Moyer
Working Man's Harps
http://www.workingmansharps.com/