Re: [Harp-L] wireless rigs for JT30

["Bob Maglinte" <bbqbob917@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "drori hammer" <drori_hammer@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <harp-l@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, April 01, 2005 11:54 AM
Subject: [Harp-L] wireless rigs for JT30fr


> Hi
> I have gone back to playing with my old JT30 mic, after a few years of 
> trying other stuff - and I am thinking of upgrading my stage show by 
> switching to wireless
> Can anyone give me any tips on good, affordable wireless setups that work 
> well with the Astatic JT30 ?
> Also, my guitarist already uses a wireless - should I be concerned about 
> having different frequencies or something ? (I have no idea how these 
> things work)
> Thanks!
> Hammer

Hi,
Do you have the older type with a screw on connector or the ones made since 
the mid to late 80's with the XLR 3-pin connector?? I have all of mine with 
a screw on connector, so I can use an adapter that allows me to use a guitar 
cable, and so I'd go with a guitar setup. Now which one for the cheap? I'd 
make sure that it uses a different frequency than you guitarist uses or it's 
gonna be holy hell on the bandstand and both signals are gonna be a mess. 
Make sure it has true diversity, meaning two channels, so that if there's a 
dropout in the signal, it will automatically switch to the channel with the 
strongest signal. Be sure to have batteries on hand because they can, 
ESPECIALLY in wireless units made prior to the mid 90's, drain batteries as 
quickly as digital effects pedals can (damned near a battery a gig), and 
when you're not playing, shut the transmitter off ASAP to cut battery drain.

All wireless units will alter the signal in varying degrees, some will 
boost/cut treble, some bass, etc., and some of those things will also depend 
on acoustic conditions of where you play in addition, and the strength of 
the battery being used in the transmitter, and NEVER get batteries that 
aren't alkaline or titanium, with titanium the longest lasting of them all 
or they'll get sucked dry quickly and it will affect the signal strength as 
well as the tone. You will have to turn the amp up a bit, much as if you had 
been using a cable of over 20 feet in length, so don't get freaked out about 
that. You will need to try them out for yourself in a store before buying 
anything, and I strongly urge you to try as many different units as possible 
first because of the reasons I mentioned.

If you buy one used, I would avoid buying any wireless made prior to 1995 
because they tend to drain batteries 2-3 times more quickly than the newer 
units, and avoid the ones that are actually running on a CB radio frequency 
like a Nady 49, which ran on a 49mhz radio signal, which trucker CB's and 
police radios are usually on or risk the signal getting lost when one of 
those drives by. Most of the better quality wireless units have a range in 
the line of sight (ideal conditions) of up 300-500 feet depending on the 
unit you choose to buy, and the one I have is a Nady Wireless 3D model I 
bought 10 years ago, which was one of the very last units being made where 
you could in the line of sight, actually go as far as 1500 feet away (and 
I've put it to the test). If you play outdoors, if the wind is strong 
enough, in the right conditions, the signal can get blown around some by the 
wind.

One other thing to remember if you start using them on a regular basis is 
that when you get towards the edge of its range, you'll often find your 
signal a beat behind, so you may want to be aware of that first. As good as 
a wireless can be, I still find that the sound of a high quality cable is 
still better, and so I only use a wireless in either very tight stages or 
more often than not, just a few tunes during the night, max.

Sincerely,
Barbeque Bob Maglinte
Boston, MA
http://www.barbequebob.com
MP3's: http://music.mp3lizard.com/barbequebob/