Re: Re: Re: [Harp-L] Re: Embossing

["Tim Moyer" <wmharps@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Embossing will reveal all manner of irregularities in the reeds and 
slots.  It could be that the reed is just off center a little.  One 
thing I like to do after embossing is to run a shim (0.002") down 
the edge of the slot between the slot edge and the reed.  This will 
both straighten the reed in the slot and remove tiny burrs on the 
slot wall.  If this isn't sufficient -- maybe the slot has been 
narrowed too much -- I sometimes use a chisel to scrape away at the 
slot wall to widen it where it contacts the reed. 

-tim


--- In harp-l-archives@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Blake Taylor" 
<taylorb@xxxx> wrote:

O.k. -    Made my first attempt at embossing last night - used a 
penny
and rubbed it with some force, using the curved edge, up and down the
slot.  Didn't see a great deal of difference visually (I was trying 
it
on a sp20).  Obviously the reeds needed to be re-gapped. After
regapping, I gave it a blow, and noticed a buzz in some of the reeds.
I'm guessing I may have overdone it on the embossing. Any ideas /
suggestions?

 - Blake

>>> "Blunt White" <playharp@xxxx> 11/03/05 8:40 PM >>>
I have recently used the tip of needle nose pliers. They are easy to
grasp 
and the outside of the tip has a nice round shape and is very hard.  
It
also 
permits working each side independently of the other.  I smoothed the
plier 
tip with crocus cloth.  I have also found that one or two light 
passes
on 
the edge of the reed slot before starting with 320 on a sanding 
stick 
removes the burrs that often drag and catch during the embossing
process.

Tim what size socket head do you use?

Blunt White
Banker by day, bluesman by night


>From: "Tim Moyer" <wmharps@xxxx>
>To: harp-l@xxxx
>Subject: Re:  Re: [Harp-L] Re: Embossing
>Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2005 13:17:02 -0000
>
>Vern Smith wrote:
> > If I were to make an embossing tool, I would chuck a 6-inch 
length
> > of 1/4" diameter steel rod in my drill press. While it was
> > spinning, I would file the end into a hemispherical shape, then
> > polish it with 600-grit sandpaper and then crocus cloth.
>
>I personally prefer a cylindrical, rather than spheroid (or
>hemispherical) shape for embossing.  A cylinder, with a slightly
>smoothed edge, will allow the embossing to work closer to the tip of
>the slot.  Embossing with a sphere can only get so close to the tip
>before the ball starts to contact the tip of the slot.  I use a
>stainless steel socket.  Of course, a cylinder has to aligned
>properly with the slot.
>
>I also prefer something somewhat larger than 3x the slot width.  The
>socket I use is probably 10x the slot width.  I use fairly subtle
>embossing on the harps I customize, having found that extremely
>tight tolerances can result in an extremely bright and brassy tone.
>
>-tim
>
>
>
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Harp-L is sponsored by SPAH, http://www.spah.org
>Harp-L@xxxx
>http://harp-l.org/mailman/listinfo/harp-l


_______________________________________________
Harp-L is sponsored by SPAH, http://www.spah.org
Harp-L@xxxx
http://harp-l.org/mailman/listinfo/harp-l

_______________________________________________
Harp-L is sponsored by SPAH, http://www.spah.org
Harp-L@xxxx
http://harp-l.org/mailman/listinfo/harp-l

--- End forwarded message ---