Re: [Harp-L] Jazz chromatic / gaps setup, etc.



Alex - 

The key things are airtightntess and tip gapping.

Partially defeating the function of windsavers can improve the timbre
of bends but will severely limit their range.

==The things that improve airtightness are:

==Slide and mouthpiece airitigntess

==Reedplate-to-comb airtightness

==Reed slot tolerances

==Reed profile at foot of the reed

==Presence of valves

==Reed gap at the tip of the reed

===By raising the gaps at the tip of the reed, you give the reed
farther to travel toward the reedplate during bending. This improves
the ability of the reed to respond to bending and the range, which can
be three or four semitones with developed technique. (I have heard Bill
Barrett bend a note nearly an octave on a CX-12, widely considered the
"bendiest" chromatic. It was very soft in pitch and sounded like an
extremely distant foghorn, though.)

===Reed profile at the foot of the reed should, for minimal air loss,
be as close as possible to the surface of the reedplate without dipping
below it. However, for your individual style you might experiment to
find the optimal gap for this part of the reed.

===Reed slots should be drawn inward  - "embossed" - to reduce escape
of air along the sides of the reeds.

===Valves have a huge effect on airtightness, reed response, pitch, and
timbe. They also extend the bending range. 

In a dual reed system, as in an unvalved diatonic, bending range is
limited to the range of pitches between the standard pitches of the
blow and draw reed in the system. With two reeds involved, ease of
bending is enhanced and timbre is enriched. 

In a valved harp you have a single-reed system. Timbre is not as rich
and bends need a gentler initiation and greater finesse to manage, but
bending range is not limited by the presence of another reed.

===Reedplate-to-comb airtightness can be improved in various ways. For
a flat-slab comb, sanding the comb surfaces to a more consistent
flatness can help. For a non-flat-slab comb, something like turbotape
may help (I've never tried it). Some builders arc the right and left
ends of the reedplate upward to create tension intended to press the
reedplate more tightly against the comb when fastened down.  Tightening
screws from the middle of the reedplate outward toward the end helps
smooth out the reedplate surface as it is fastened.

===Slide-and-mouthpiece assembly is widely considered the biggest
culprit in air loss in chromatic harmonicas. Blackie Schackner, Doug
Tate, and Dick Gardner have all written about ways to imprive this, and
Vern Smith has a tool to work on specific parts (not sure if he sells
it or not). I've never conquered my aversion to messing with this; I
try to amke sure the slider is flat, that the parts are aligned, and
that the mouthpiece screws are as tight as possible without interfering
with slide travel.

Summary advice: To improve bending, leave the valves alone, play with
reed gaps at both tip and base of the reed, emboss the slots, screw the
reedplates on from the middle outward, tighten the mouthpiece screws
and, if you feel up to it, mess with reedplate arc, comb flatness, and
mouthpiece tolerances.

And, of course, work on your bending technique. Gently does it.

Winslow

--- Alexander Savelyev <Alexander.Savelyev@xxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Hi, 
> 
> Met and chatted with Olivier Ker Ourio a few weeks ago
> www.kerourio.com 
> 
> I like his emotional style of playing with with the use of bending
> technique in a similar way to what Toots is doing. He said he adjusts
> the gaps of the reeds to do so and leaves the windsavers flat as they
> were, others cut off the edge of the respective windsaver, most
> daring do penetrate the windsavers with the needle, which I think is
> not likely to help much. Of course I'm gonna find out the answer on
> how to set up the reeds in order to be able to use some bending on
> chromatic, maybe asking Olivier personally when I have a chance, but
> I'd appreciate if some of the harp-l members could share this info.
> Namely, how to set the reeds without modifying windsavers so that
> bending is possible or gets much easier without excessive strain of
> the reeds. Please give a few tips on to put me on track. 
> 
> Big thanks for any tips to come.  
> 
> 
> Best, 
> 
> Alex
> 
> 
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