Re: [Harp-L] Re:Was American Chestnut combs, now stainless steel (Vern Smith, Dave Payne)

[Gary Calahan <glcalahan@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hey Seth,

I have a SS Dude Harp and have had it for years and also a Chris Reynalds'
Brass comb....both Marine Bands that are my all time favorite harps.
Perhaps one of the folks that have been on harp-l  awhile will remember who
put out the SS Dude but Chris R.'s workmanship is absolutely beautiful on
the Brass Combs!  There is no discernable difference in sound between the
two.  Both would be a real serious weapon in a fight!  (They are hefty!)  If
you aren't careful, you could knock your own teeth out!

Gary C




On Thu, Jun 11, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Seth Galitzer <sethgali@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Sounds like this is going to be one mother of a heavy harp.  It'd be
> interesting to see how it sounds compared to other metal combs (eg
> aluminum or brass).  Also sounds like fun!
>
> Seth
>
> geoff atkins wrote:
> > (Reply to Recommendations and caveats for drilling procedures in
> Stainless)
> >
> > Thanks Vern and Dave!
> >
> > The "drilling expert" that was lined-up backed out, so I'm on my own.
> > In tests he tells me he has drilled 60 holes in 316 from the same cobalt
> > drill bit, with sharpness left for more.
> > My drill press is in good order, it's German, not Taiwanese. (I also have
> a
> > German metal-working lathe and gas and arc welding gear in my "little
> shop
> > of horrors").
> >
> > I'm getting some cobalt drills (-with spares!) tomorrow, as I've found
> that
> > titanium-coated drills over here are often of suspect quality. In some
> cases
> > HSS has lasted longer.
> > I received a tip about the actual drilling: use motorcyle chain
> lubricant,
> > which has a high specific heat, and drill in 2 sec bursts onto lightly
> > centre-punched holes. Low revs is a must, as you said , Dave.
> > Also I've been told to set the bit in the chuck so that it projects only
> > half an inch or so. The steel is 304 grade, which is softer than the 316.
> >
> > I'll make a jig, as the combs are dimensioned to fit Hohner reedplates,
> in
> > which the end holes are cunningly offset. My S/S blanks have all the
> sharp
> > corners removed, so every reed plate will need working upon also.
> > I'm going to give Vern's Idea a try, the tapping of the finer holes is a
> > worthwhile benefit, thank you for the excellent suggestion. I've already
> got
> > the tap and die kit from past tasks, and will probably use a 2mm OD
> metric
> > thread.
> > I have several 3-stage sets of taps.
> >
> > Initially the intention is to put stock covers on. I've quite a lot of
> > spares, as the Hohner importer to South Africa doesn't bring-in reed
> plates,
> > so a complete harp has to be bought every time a reed breaks.
> >
> > Special covers are the next task, to achieve full-length coverage.
> Instead
> > of stamping 24 pieces, they will be laser cut out of 0.5mm plate. Somehow
> > tin snips don't feel right... :)
> > The pressing will need a male and female die pair and I have a couple of
> 20
> > ton hydraulic jacks begging to be used. But that's for later.
> >
> > Best Regards Geoff Atkins
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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>
>
> --
> The beatings will continue until morale has improved.
> _______________________________________________
> Harp-L is sponsored by SPAH, http://www.spah.org
> Harp-L@xxxxxxxxxx
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>



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