Re: [Harp-L] Slot Embossing and Accordions



Hi Joe,

>
>  and I have never seen an accordion reed with an embossed reed slot.  Upon
>> reflection I have come to the conclusion that the technique mentioned by
>> the
>> accordion tuner was very likely not slot embossing but one where an area
>> around, but recessed from the slot edge is coined or otherwise depressed
>> in
>> order to force the adjacent slot side in closer to the reed.  I have seen
>> some old Hohner accordion reeds modified in this manner and posted a photo
>> of one, along with that first reed I embossed at:
>>
>
>
https://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AZ6Y28n7JwtSZGNra24yZDZfMThjY24zbnhocw&hl=en



> On the one hand you say you never saw a case of embossing then you say that
> you have seen some old Hohner reeds modified in (this?) manner.
> I think you lost me.


I'm differentiating between coining and embossing.  By coining at a remove
from the reed slot edge - about 0.5mm in the case of the Hohner accordion
reed shown in the photo, the reed-to-slot gap can be narrowed without any
lowering of the slot edge.  But as I said, I found coining harmonica
reedplates to be problematic.

>
>
>> The main problem I can see in employing slot embossing on accordion reeds
>> is
>> that embossing effectively lowers the slot edge into the reed slot,
>>
>
> Doesn't all embossing do this? This is why I say to use a large dia
> embossing tool. As I said last night, you DON't want to 'furrow' (which is
> what you're talking about (I think?). You want to 'swage'. You want to
> gradually force some of the soft brass (or in the case of accordions..mostly
> aluminum) in towards the reed edges.


All slot edge embossing will lower the slot edge to some degree but coining
at a remove from the slot edge will not.  I agree with you about using a
large diameter embossing tool when embossing both slot sides at once. The
embossing tools I use are shown here:

http://docs.google.com/Doc?docid=0AZ6Y28n7JwtSZGNra24yZDZfMjJtNm14NGdmOA&hl=en


> Why would you have to DO that. A reed is already raised above the slot.
> Embossing only slightly changes this reed to slot edge height. Then the reed
> can be re gapped if necessary And it usually isn't necessary.


A reed is raised above the slot at the free end but not at the rivet end.
 If you emboss only part way back to the rivet end then it shouldn't be
necessary to lower the reed at the rivet end.  But embossing the entire reed
slot will leave a gap at the rivet end that can only be closed by lowering
the reed there.


Rick



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