[Harp-L] More on cleaning chromatic inside question

["sam Blancato" <samblancato@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

My experience has been that you can't really properly clean a chromatic
without taking it apart.  I have several 270s that I've cleaned a couple of
times and here's what I learned through trial and error:
 
1.	Do not use any kind of strong soap.  Strong soap has the potential
to mess up the wind savers (valves).  I used a citrus based cleaner on my
first cleaning job.  The valves got kind of wavy and would not lay flat on
the slots any more.  Though they still worked, they didn't work as well and
I eventually replaced all of them.  I now use "dawn" dishwashing liquid -
about a teaspoon in the kitchen sink filled with water, so it's a very mild
soap solution.
2.	You have to separate the reed plates from the comb weather it's wood
or plastic.  If you don't, you stand a good chance of messing up the valves
on the comb side of the plate.  If you are working with a wood comb
chromatic like a 270 where the plates are held on with little nails, MAKE
SURE that the harp is dry and has not been played for a couple of days so
that it is nice and dry.  If you separate the plates from the comb on a harp
that's been moistened from playing, the comb has a chance to change shape,
now being free form the plates, and will very likely not fit as it did
before.  If the comb is very dry it won't change shape that much.
3.	When you have the plates in the water, don't wave or wiggle them
around too much.  The idea is to not create any current that will pull the
valves out and away from laying flat to the slot.  I use a soft bristle nail
brush I got at "Bed, Bath and Beyond" and brush away from the valve mount
point but I have to say that as of late I just use a microfiber rag and
press gently, moving away from the valve mount point.  
4.	I really like the idea of brightening the brass with some sort of
cleaner like Lime-Away or CLR.  Resist this - the brass doesn't have to be
all shiny, shiny and these cleaners create problems for the valves.
5.	On the 270 combs, replacing the plates isn't that big a deal - the
nail holes will still hold the plates pretty snug.  If you want extra
holding power do this:  With your finger, press a very small dot of acrylic
latex caulking INTO the nail holes and wipe the excess off with a well wrung
out rag so that all you see is a little white dot where the nail hole is.
Don't' try to fill the hole up; all you need is a little bit.  Do all the
nail holes and let this dry for 2 days - since the caulking is set into the
hole it will take a long time for it to cure out completely.  When you
replace the reed plates with the nails this caulking will tighten up the
hole and make the nails hold really well.  If you fill them up all the way
you risk splitting the wood when you insert the nail.  Don't use a hammer to
put the nails back in unless you have a nice flat surface with a terry towel
on it to absorb some of the shock.  Use a nail set that fits over the nail
head properly.  I use a pair of Vice-Grip pliers set to be open pretty wide
to press the nails in almost all the way.  Then I set them with a tack
hammer and nail set.  
6.	If you get the right screws and have a drill press you can do a
really nice retrofit and not need the nails anymore (see Harponline.com) but
it's not really needed.
7.	If you make sure you mouth (teeth) are clean, you probably don't
have to clean the harp that much;  and the mouth piece and slide are
probably more important to keep clean.
 
Hope this helps.
 
Sam Blancato, Pittsburgh